- Loose tile in the shower? On a countertop or backsplash? Remove it, add a few dollops, and press it back into place. In 24-hours, you’re good to go. Grout needs a touch-up? Use some there too.
- Caulk any gaps or cracks that appeared over the winter. It saves energy, prevents water damage and improves appearance. Don’t forget you can also touch up windows, doors, baseboards, tubs and sinks and much more!
- Noisy cabinet doors or drawers that slam shut with a “bang?” A dab on inside corners (or on the frame) serves as quieting “bumpers.”
- Keep picture frames and mirrors hanging straight with a dab on corners too. Dab, let dry and hang.
- Make non-scratch/non-slip “feet” for soap dishes, liquid soap dispensers and ceramic canisters.
- Flower pot or patio table rocking back and forth due to an uneven surface or bottom? To make “self-leveling” feet — turn it over, add a few dabs, let it partially set-up (six or seven hours) and place the bottom or legs down on pieces of waxed paper right where you want it. Next day, you’ll have a “solid” fit. Levels most things — big or small, inside or out.
- Toilet tank lid doesn’t fit right? Scrapes and grinds because it’s loose? Put a bead around the top edge of the tank or inside the lid. Let dry for 24-hours and replace for a snug (and quiet) fit.
- Want wood baseboard where it can’t be nailed … like around your bathtub? Glue it in place with adhesive caulk instead.
- Repair cracks and holes in walls, molding or railings (or hide mitering mistakes). Ready to paint within two hours.
- Loose floor tiles or wood trim? Lock it down with adhesive caulk.
- Use as wallpaper “helper.” Glue loose edges back into place and seal to prevent curling due to moisture.
- No need for mounting holes in exterior surfaces for hooks, signs, decorations or thermometers. Just apply adhesive caulk on item, tape into place and let dry. Great for brick, stucco and all types of siding. (Attach address numbers to house or mailbox too.)
- Mount pegboard panels on studs in garage, carport or in attic for storage.
- Firm up wobbly chair and table legs. (Even pro upholsters use it.)
- Boat owners keep some handy to seal out water and to prevent destructive rust and corrosion above the water line. It’s great for RV, ATV and motorcycle use too.
- It’s also a thoughtful housewarming gift!
The jobs that caulk can do are almost endless but you need to understand which caulk is right for the job you are doing. Here’s a little list of the most common ten types of caulk and the type of projects each can be used for.
1. Acrylic latex caulk. This caulk can be used for both indoor and outdoor projects. It can be used best to fill in gaps in moldings and baseboards and around door and window frames. It is fast drying and can be painted in 6-8 hours of applying. It also comes in different pigments so you can match a color to your job. This caulk is inexpensive and easy to apply. It should not be used in wet places or areas that will endure a lot of moisture. This caulk remains flexible and can be effective for 10-15 years.
2. Vinyl latex caulk. Vinyl latex caulk can be used in a variety of places, both interior and exterior. It is really good for small gaps around windows and doors and can also be used for tubs and showers because it withstands wet and damp areas well. It is also non-flammable and you can paint it. However, this type of caulk will lose flexibility and harden over time and so it will need to be replaced after about five years.
3. Siliconized acrylic caulk. This type of caulk combines silicone with acrylic latex caulk for a durable, waterproof formula. It is good for both interior and exterior projects and adheres well to most surfaces. It is especially good for tubs, tile, glass and ceramic tile surfaces. It comes in a clear version as well as a variety of colors, is non-flammable, can be painted and is mildew resistant. This caulk remains flexible for a long time and can have a life expectancy of over 25 years. It is also very easy to apply and cleans up with soap and water.
4. 100% Silicone caulk. Silicone caulk is excellent for sinks, tubs, showers , or any other area that has a lot of moisture. It will work well on non-porous surfaces such as ceramic tile, glass and metal surfaces and is mold and mildew resistant. However, this type of caulk does not adhere to wood surfaces, resists painting, and typically only comes in a clear or white color. Silicone caulk can be difficult to apply but does remain flexible when dry. It is non-toxic but it must be cleaned up with a solvent. Silicone caulk does tend to have a strong odor so you should plan your work in a well-ventilated place.
5. Painter’s caulk. This is an inexpensive latex caulk that painters use to fill in holes and cracks before painting. It can also be used in corners to provide a smooth joint where painters are using contrasting colors. This caulk applies easily and smoothly and adheres well to wood, plaster, drywall and masonry. It can be painted within one hour of application and cleans up nicely with soap and water.
6. Tub and tile acrylic sealant. This type of caulk is an excellent choice for all your bathroom and kitchen projects. It is mold and mildew resistant, gives a good watertight seal and adheres to almost all surfaces such as tile, tubs, glass, metal, wood, drywall and plaster. It also comes in a variety of different colors or it can be painted to match your project. This product is non-flammable, cleans up with soap and water, stays flexible when dry, and can last for over 10 years.
7. Adhesive caulk. This is an all-purpose caulk that is especially good for high humidity environments such as kitchens and bathrooms. It adheres well to many surfaces like ceramic tile, porcelain, wood, drywall, plaster and metal. A mildew-cide is a part of the chemical composition which helps to resist mold and mildew growth in damp areas. This caulk can also work as a strong adhesive for replacing loose tiles, molding and other such items. It is easy to apply and only requires a soap and water clean-up
8. Butyl rubber sealant. This is a strong exterior sealant that can be used on wood, metal, concrete and brick. It is good for sealing joints in gutters and around chimneys as well as sealing around skylights and roof vents. It is also the best waterproof sealant for house foundations. It is difficult to apply and slow to dry and clean-up requires a solvent. This sealant has a life expectancy of anywhere from 2-10 years.
9. Roof repair caulk. This caulk is a butyl rubber/asphalt formula that works well on roofing, skylights and for sealing flashing. It can also repair small areas in asphalt. It is weatherproof and waterproof and can be used on wet and dry surfaces. This caulk can also be painted. It requires mineral spirits for clean-up.
10. Concrete and mortar repair caulk. This is an interior/exterior caulk that can repair cracks and holes in brick, concrete, stone, stucco, and metal as well as textured walls and ceilings. It has a textured finish and retains some flexibility when dry. It can be painted and cleans up easily with soap and water.
You should always read the manufacturers label before choosing a particular type of caulk for your project to be sure you have found the right one for your project.
The days of plaster and lathe were pretty much gone as soon as drywall came along and builders discovered they could finish walls very quickly, without waiting for plaster to dry. Today’s drywall gives a smoother, cleaner surface, and it is much easier for the DIY homeowner to install… especially if you have the right materials and right conditions (humidity and temperature) to take full advantage of one of the finer features of drywall; the tapered edges. As manufactured today, the long edges of drywall are slightly tapered so that when two sections of drywall are joined (tapered end to tapered end), it will create enough of a recess to accommodate drywall tape or mud, otherwise known as joint compound, as a finishing material, filling that space and creating a seamless join. Cold weather and winter conditions can affect the way you can work with drywall. If you want your drywall job finished properly, (and who doesn’t?) we have a couple of recommendations for you that specifically refer to interior walls, partitions and ceiling drywall installation.
1) Thickness – Half-inch drywall panels are pretty much the standard thickness for interior walls. However, when installing drywall on a ceiling, you may want to use half-inch or even 5/8” inch thick panels to prevent sagging. Sagging can become a problem even with extra fasteners, and any texturization (Popcorn anyone?) or other types of heavy surfacing material can add to the weight problem. So… what you need to remember is, when you’re working against gravity… think thick.
2) Curvature – There is also a much thinner drywall, 1/4″ inch thick. While not appropriate for the more robust requirements of a ceiling installation, this drywall is excellent for installation on slightly curved surfaces. If a tighter curve is required, you can try slightly dampening (damp… not wet!) the surface to make it more flexible. If you are working toward an extreme curve, like an arch, 1/4″ thick drywall can be scored about every half inch to achieve the desired effect. An added benefit to this method is that the more scores there are on the back, the fewer ridges there will be on the front that you have to cover with finishing material.
3) Code Standard – Thicker drywall, up to 3/4″ inch thick is also available and it’s typically referred to as “fire resistant drywall.” It may be that rooms such adjacent to garages or other potential sources of combustion are required to have fire resistant drywall, according to your local building code. Where a vapor retarder is required, use foil-backed gypsum board, vapor retarder faced mineral wool or faced-glass fiber insulation batts. When a polyethylene vapor retarder film is installed on ceilings behind gypsum board it is important to install the ceiling insulation before the gypsum board. Failure to follow this procedure can result in moisture condensation on the backside of the gypsum board, which will cause the board to sag
4) Humidity – The interior temperature of your application site shouldn’t be any colder than 50 degrees for at least 48 hours before taping and finishing. This will allow the drywall to be completely… well… dry. This means that you should start your 48 hour countdown only after any texturing or priming has been applied and the previous coating has dried completely.
5) Temperature – If you use a setting type joint compound in cold weather you can can avoid many cold weather related problems. And, of course, the use of warming bags, and wraps for all your ready-mixed joint compounds and textures will protect them from freezing in storage and make all these materials more fluid and easy to apply. It should be no surprise that we believe products like CaulkWarmer are perfect for this part of any cold-temperature drywall installation. If you absolutely MUST use a localized temporary heat source, the temperature should not exceed 95 degrees F (35 degrees C) in any given room or area, and heaters should not be allowed to blow directly on wall surfaces because excessive localized heating can cause joint compound to dry too rapidly resulting in cracking and localized delamination