Why you should uncoil your heated foam hose before you plug it in

Spary Foam Hose Sleeve

The quality of a spray foam application will always be dependent on properly functioning equipment, regardless of how many years experience an applicator might have.  Heated Hoses are a vital part of any spray foam equipment setup and are critical to the consistent flow of material, which translates to a uniform spray and ultimately, a better application with less waste.   Heated hose lengths can be up to 400 feet long, so, it’s necessary to keep the material heated as it travels through the hose temperatures all the way out to the spray gun. Maintaining temperatures helps to ensure proper mix and ratios at the point of application.

Most all spray foam hoses are heated in order to maintain the proper chemical temperature, however spray foam heated hoses are not designed to heat the foam initially, heated hoses are only designed to maintain the heat of the foam at a specific temperature as it flows through the hose.

When left coiled, the hose can create hot spots that will cause temperature spikes which can potentially degrade the foam as it flows through the hose.

This is why you should always uncoil your foam hose before heating it.

Just another expert idea from Guy Calor, the Caulk King and CaulkWarmer


Caulk and Curing

caulk shrink
 You should always allow caulk to cure to account for shrinkage.   Most caulks shrink at least 10% after they have completely dried. Some even shrink up to 30%. This is not necessarily a problem. The seals will still be seamless and the bond just as tight. Shrinkage is a normal outcome with caulk so it’s best to take the issue of  shrinkage into account when applying caulk. Sometimes a second layer of caulk is required and will produce a neater surface instead of  overfilling a crack with caulk.  A very good idea is to allow Elastomeric Latex Caulks to cure.  Always give elastomeric latex caulks plenty of time (1-3 days) to cure before painting them. The reason is that these types of caulk are much more elastic than any paint that is applied over them and the paint can’t stretch enough to avoid cracking during the caulk’s curing (and subsequent shrinkage).
Just another expert idea from Guy Calor, the Caulk King and CaulkWarmer

Laying the perfect caulk bead

Perfect Bead – To get a perfect caulk line, affix two pieces of masking tape on either side of the seam you are caulking. The space left between the pieces of tape will be the width of the caulk line. Squeeze the caulk along the line. Carefully pull each strip of tape off immediately after tooling and you will be left with a flawless finish.  Just another expert idea from Guy Calor, the Caulk King and CaulkWarmer